The meaning of blue jeans--Lexington
Lexington-------The meaning of blue jeans
Denim's history suggests that American attitudes to work are more complex than they seem.
In an interview near the end of his career the fashion designer Yves
Saint Laurent confessed to a regret: that he had not invented blue
jeans. [They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity," sighed
the owlish Frenchman. [All I hope for in my clothes." American
denim-lovers might add other attributes. As far back as the 1930s, when
the popularity of cowboy films helped jeans make the leap from workwear
into the wardrobes of Hollywood stars, denim has been understood to
stand for something larger about the American spirit: for rugged
individualism, informality and a classless respect for hard work.
[Deep down in every American's breast-is a longing for the
frontier," enthused Vogue magazine in 1935, advising readers on how to
dress with true [Western chic" (combine jeans with a Stetson hat and [a
great free air of Bravado," it counselled). Levi Strauss & Co., the
San Francisco firm which invented modern blue jeans in 1873, saw sales
boom after it crafted posters showing denim-clad cowboys toting saddles
and kissing cowgirls.
Jump to the 1950s and 1960s, and American consumers learned the heroic
history of denim from nationwide magazine and television advertising
campaigns. They were told that the tough blue cloth began life as [Serge
de Nîmes", in the French town of that name, and was used by Columbus
for his ships' sails, before outfitting the pioneers who tamed the West.
In a country so often riven by culture wars, jeans crossed lines of
ideology, class, gender and race. Presidents from Jimmy Carter onwards
have worn denim when fishing, clearing brush or playing sports to signal
their everyman credentials-though Barack Obama has endured mockery for
donning capacious jeans that he later conceded were [a little frumpy".
Since the second world war, when GIs and sailors took blue jeans to
the Old World and Asia, denim has carried ideas of American liberty
around the globe, often leaving governments scrambling to catch up. Emma
McClendon, a curator at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in
New York, notes in a fine new book, [Denim: Fashion's Frontier", that
when the Berlin Wall came down in 1989, reporters were surprised to see
young East Berliners dressed exactly like their cousins from the West-in
stonewashed jeans. Ms McClendon's book accompanies a small but splendid
exhibition on denim at the FIT on Seventh Avenue.
The popularity of clothing invented to survive hard labour is of topical
interest in America, a country gripped by election-year debates about
blue-collar, working-class voters, and whether their interests have been
ignored by ruling elites. Ms McClendon argues, persuasively, that much
of what Americans think they know about denim draws on a set of [origin
myths", crafted and disseminated by manufacturers over many years, both
individually and in campaigns run by the Denim Council, an industry
group of clothing-makers and textile mills that was active from 1955-75.
The council, whose papers are now in the FIT's archives, was formed
after jeans-clad motorcycle gangs and such films as [The Wild One" and
[Rebel Without a Cause" led to something like a nationwide panic about
denim and its unseemly effects on young bodies and minds. Committees of
denim manufacturers and advertising executives set out to combat
[anxieties over juvenile delinquency". Wholesome films about jeans
appeared on over 70 television stations, and [How It All Began" cartoons
ran in newspapers, tracing the origins of denim back to medieval
Europe. From the late 1950s Levi Strauss & Co. ran advertisements
and a letter-writing campaign urging schools to allow students to attend
classes in denim. Their pitch combined images of clean-cut, studious
children in jeans with such slogans as [Right for School", explains
Tracey Panek, Levi's company historian.
Quite a lot of this marketing was hokum, or close to it. There is no
evidence that Columbus crossed oceans under billowing denim sails, while
the latest research is that the term [denim" may have been invented in
England. Perhaps most strikingly, relatively few cowboys wore blue jeans
at the height of the Wild West, Ms McClendon says: canvas and leather
trousers were also common. Denim was mostly worn by small farmers,
field-hands, labourers and miners-some of the oldest pieces in the
archives of Levi Strauss & Co. were found in disused mines in
California and Nevada (there is a whole world of denim-hunters out
there, willing to endure much hardship to find a pair of 1880s Levi's).
2017 12/23